Trang, Had Yao, and Ko Lanta!

So Thailand is good so far. The language is proving to be a hassle in some places, I'm going to have to learn some of it quick. I can spot the word for chicken or squid on a menu now! A lot of the roads and some of the scenery remind me of north Queensland for some reason. The layout of the roads and towns seem to have the same basic idea here. It's very easy to find the tourist spots as there will be about a hundred signs before you get there. On the way to Had Yao beach there was a sign every km or two to confirm that you were indeed going in the right direction, even though there was nowhere else to go.

Trang!

Trang is a busy little town in the south. Seems to be one of the southernmost stops for tourists, although, many didn't seem to stray past the train station area when I was there. A lot of people were staring at me and honking as they went by, I assumed I looked different :)

I was following the Lonely Planet guide around the town as it had a small map. The main place I wanted to get to was the Tourism Authority Thailand (TAT) office to get some more maps of the area. But the TAT office had moved since the Lonely Plane guidebook was published... Oh well. I eventually found it on my way out of the town.

My recommendations for Trang:

• S2S Queen Trang Hotel: Moderatly cheap. Pretty good inside, my only complaint was that the sink had a leak so you ended up standing in whatever you put down the sink. You can book this one on Agoda. It's on the north side of Thanon Pratta Lung, here's the map link.
• J'Dang Espresso: I just spotted this one on the main road while wandering around looking for the TAT. I had the strongest Iced Espresso ever created. For the rest of the day I was out of it. To get your crackcoffee go here.
• Richley Station: On the main road to the train station, near where all the other places recommended by LP and wikitravel are. If you get off the train and head towards the clock tower it's on your right in the first block. English menu, awesome crab curry.
• Wunderbar: This one has a website here. They do salami and cheese and pork. I had a wienerschnitzel, so awesome, I missed you, Pork :D
• Night Market: This one is infront of the railway station. Lots of food and goods of questionable authenticity. They said it is on every Friday Saturday and Sunday. I didn't get to the night markets that LP and wikitravel refer too, I'm not sure if this is different to them now.
• Sin Ocha Bakery: Right next to the train station. LP recommends, so there where a few other foreigners in there too. One of them was on his third beer by 10am (they may have cleared away more bottles...). This will be forever known as the place where I one again had bacon, after 7 weeks in Malaysia I was starting to miss it. Not bad value at 100baht ($3ish) for 2 eggs, bacon, toast,  ham (luncheon meat), sausages (hot dog) and salad (HAHAHA WHAT'S THAT?).

Mmm Weiner. From Wunderbar.

When you fill up with 95RON petrol (or gasahol?) you get a free box of tissues! FREE!

Had Yao Beach

The spelling for this place seems to vary between Had and Hat, I don't know what's correct. I went here to look at the cliffs on the beach mainly. There's a place to stay written about in LP that they give a great review too, but if you search around a bit you'll find a lot more negative reviews about it. The blog gives some more information on the area and a few other places on the road just before on Had Yao Beach. I turned up wanting to stay in one of the bungalows for 500baht, but they were all full, they offered a bamboo bungalow for 200baht a night ($6AU), but I wasn't too fussed with it. Across the dirt road is another place with some much newer accommodation. It's a row of 8 rooms, quite large, all with air conditioning, western style toilets, etc. I studied my options on my phone for a while and eventually picked the fancy place for one night at 700baht, not too bad considering the normal rate is 1200baht.

Some of the shops, and the cliffs behind them.

The front of where I was staying. The beach is 50m ^ that way.

It looks like a small Muslim community here, but there is one shop selling beer (Large bottle of Leo for 50baht!) so the beach often has a lot of bottles scattered about it.

When It came time for food, I went out to what looked like a small restaurant, but then someone asked if I'm hungry and I said yes. Then there was a lot of discussion with the Thai word for fish (pla!) and then out came the owner of the accommodation I was staying in on a little tuktuk thing and he drove me down the road to another resorts restaurant. That was unexpected, lucky I bought my wallet! He said he'd be back at 8 to pick me up. The food there was good, but lots of mosquitoes, and all through eating they were looking at me for some reason. I was just taking my time, enjoying a beer too, then they turn off some of the lights. Right. I get it. But I'm going to sit there for longer! After another five minutes or so they finally they come over and said they are closing soon. So I go off to pay, and since I left my phone back in the room I asked the time, It was only 7:30! So I figure I'll walk back, it wasn't that far, but it was dark. When I get back I found out the owner had gone to get me... Oh well, I'd restocked with beer from the shop on the way back, I was good :D

Here are some beach photos:

Big overhanging rock. I tried to wade around it but it got a bit deep :(

Sea!

Rocks!

A little cave in that big rock! This was about 10m in or so. It's so dark it's almost like being blind

Sunset.

Ko Lanta / Kantiang Bay

I headed to Ko Lanta after leaving Had Yao. It was only 35km west, but I had to do a 140km loop with two ferry crossings to get here. On the way the GPS decided to send me down a road that didn't have any big arrows saying go this way, but I deicided to follow it anyway. It turns out that road was being resealed, so you have to dodge them constructing a road. Then a little further down it turns to dirt... I figured I should go down that anyway, since I'm on a vehicle that can do it! And HOW AWESOME WAS IT. It had rained the night before so it was a bit muddy in places, but quite manageable. There was one spot that looked very slippery so I decided to go through the car track under water instead of slip into it, but it was a little deeper than I expected! I stopped to check how high the mud had gone (only to the footpegs :( ) and then a local on a scooter zoomed past. I kept going and then eventually got to a T intersection and the guy on the scooter had also stopped there. He asked "Ko Lanta?" and I said yes, then he pointed me in the opposite direction to what the GPS was saying. I queried this, but he just said to follow him, so I did, and he showed me a short cut and that joined up to the GPS track! The road smoothed out here so I went speeding past him and got to the sealed road. I stopped and after he caught up, I gave him the thumbs up and waved. Now I want the Pirelli MT21's I had on before...

The smooth road! Although, this is where I got wet because I hit a puddle at high speed.

Actual mud! on my bike! I'm not sure it's ever had that much on it.

So then it was just a matter of two ferries (I'm not exactly sure if I got my change back from that one...) and then I was on Ko Lanta!

A ferry exactly like this one!

Another ferry!

Ko Lanta!

There are hundreds of places to stay on the island, far too many. There was one mentioned on wikitravel at one of the "10 best beaches in the world" that looked quite cheap, so I headed for that! And now I'm here at Kantiang Bay Resort. They offered one of the A/C rooms for 600baht a night, I think that's because that's all that was free, but that was 100baht less than the website. Suits me, now I'm here for the next three nights! Expect more photos!

Kantiang Bay

More Kantiang Bay

I'm in Thailand!

Minor hassles to get in... I went via Bukit Kayu Hitam which is on the Asia Highway network and the end of the north-south expressway in Malaysia. There were a couple of closer crossing, but I went there mainly because I thought there would be more chance of English speakers. The only problem with this crossing and all except for one of the border crossings is that they lead to the provinces which the Australian government (and many others) say DO NOT TRAVEL! There had been attacks in Hat Yai 5 years ago, but the more recent stuff seemed to be confined to the other two southern provinces.

Now to the border problems... First, leaving Malaysia I couldn't find where to get the Carnet for the bike signed off, eventually I got directed somewhere obscure and got it all done, and everyone spoke english so it was just a matter of being passed round to 13 different people.

Then it was off into no mans land for some duty free shopping! I got me a bottle of Johnny Walker Gold Label for about $55AU? Cheaper than Australia, but not "taxes removed" cheaper. Anyway, it was there, I had to get it, and it is good :)

:D

Next up, it's was the Thailand Immigration and Customs mess. Once I get there they waved me into the motorbike lane. There was really nothing stopping me from riding out the other side into Thailand as an illegal... But I stopped. Then I tried to figure out where I had to go. Each time I walked up to someone to ask they wandered off elsewhere, that happened about three times... Finally I found someone and they told me to go fill out the arrival card and get the passport stamped. OK easy enough, but there were questions about the address I put on the card, I didn't know it and I couldn't get it until I could get to my email, I forgot to write that bit down. Then I asked what I had to do with my bike, they said to see customs, and of course, there were about 10 different customs booths, which one? I saw a door marked Information, so I tried that, and they just directed me back out to customs... OK, now I'll try one of the customs officers assuming they don't wander away from me again. Right, now, I've found the booth I have to go to, I take over the Carnet, and just hand it to them, and they produce this other printout which is the temporary import for a vehicle. Then you're directed to the window next to it to get it signed, good, then it's all done. I go over to my bike and start reading it. First thing is they're using that odd Thai year, and that it's only valid for 30 days, and it's got a place of export already printed on the sheet. So I go back, and they say the place of export doesn't matter as it's all electronic now, and that yes, 30 days is correct. My visa is valid for 60 days, but this means I have to get out of here in a month anyway. I can still come back, just not sure on the limits now (I remember seeing 90 days total somewhere).

So now I'm in, I ride off, and then the road diverts into this other big customs shed with no one in checking anything, so I stop, take the form up to the office and ask if I'm all good to go, just in case. They say the form is good, then I ask about insurance. Now apparently I can only get it back at the boarder... Right. So it's back to the border again to find out about insurance. So I just casually stroll into  into the border exit, no one cares. I could have probably got all the way back into Malaysia and one one would have noticed. Anyway, I go up to someone and ask about insurance,  but they say I get the insurance outside, but I'm still not sure what is going on, is it an offical state thing? I question some more and they say out the gate, and point... Right. So I go out the gate, and there just happens to be a very small insurance booth, excellent. I ask for 30 days insurance, to match the date on the form, they tell me it's a minimum of 9 days... OK, I'll take 30 then. He starts doing up the form, prints it out, and then I pay. It's all done, I'm now legally in the country with my bike. And ride 150km away to Trang. Except that I've just noticed that he only gave me 9 days instead.

Argh.

Trang, while out looking for a 7-11. Can't find one of the stupid shops when you need it, but there are 6 within 500m of the border...

Langkawi!

So I went over to Langkawi again, another 2 hours of ferry trips for about $12AU (18RM each way). This time the chairlift was running so I could actually do the thing I wanted to. So it was a $13AU (40RM) taxi ride from one side of the island to the other.

The scaffolded eagle, next to the jetty 

 It's about 30km from the jetty to the cable car. I'm not sure how that all happened, they have one small town for shopping next to the jetty on one side of the island, then not much in the middle, and all the beaches and more expensive resorts and things to see on the other side of the island. Even the airport is on the other side. It also seems odd that given the distance between the main things to look at there is no real public transport. As soon as you get out of the airport there are Taxi drivers and people offering rental cars constantly. There is a taxi stand further out (next to KFC, if you're looking for it) which is where you're supposed to get a Taxi coupon for a fixed price to the destination, and then you are given a driver from those waiting in line. But I guess over the years the drivers got bored of waiting in line and started creeping closer and closer to the exit from the ferry until you have to fight through them to get out. It gets rather annoying, if you happen to be walking towards the ferry no one says anything, but when you turn around: "Taxi?" "Taxi?" "Rental car?" "Taxi?" "Motorbike?" "Taxi?".

Next to the Jetty is the Legenda Langkawi park. It's a theme park with all these odd statues through it.

The entrance, with a model of all the islands in the group. 

The beach next to the park. 

An odd statue... This one was giants fighting. I seem to recall that being a famous story, with one using the swordfish bill.

Parking, again it's whatever goes here, this time in motorbike spots. 

Or just the middle of the carpark...

Anyway, it was out to the cable car! At the bottom there is a little shopping area called Oriental village. Souvenirs, chocolate, alcohol and tobacco mostly. I did have the best Chicken Rendeng I've tried while wasting time for the clouds to go away. It was from the place on the right as you walk in.

The best toilets ever!

So then it was time for the cable car! Another 30RM to go up ($10AU), costs are starting to add up. I didn't get any pictures of the first little leg going up because the card in my camera was full, but here's where it starts:

From the top of the first section looking back down to Oriental village  and the coast. It's quite steep.

More islands, as seen from the top.

The curved walkway! covered in cloud.

The top!

The really really really old rock.

More cuved walkway!

I followed a little path down to here. It keeps going down to the base of the central support there.

Another view of the walkway.

WE HAVE TO GO DEEPER!

Looking out over the coast again.

The view from inside the cable car before it heads down... It accelerates just as it's going over too.

Looking out over the drop off.

And back up towards the top.

So after that it was another $13AU taxi ride back to the ferry terminal.

I sampled this while there too! About $16AU for 50ml. Totally worth it.

And after another hour on the ferry back to Kuala Perlis, of course it was time to take more photos of the sunsets!

Yesterdays example. [this is now my background!]

This was the sunset from the day before.

The western digtial bus! They have a shop too.

And now it's time to get my free breakfast, pack up, and then deal with paperwork as I cross into Thailand!

More sunset photos from Kuala Perlis

I went down to the jetty to check out what it looked like in proper daylight, saw this storm approaching slowly. I figured I had time to get to the shops to get some food. But I was wrong... On the way back I got quite damp. It didn't last for long though.

Oh yeah, this is where I am, and that's a horseshoe crab, although, I haven't seen anyone serving them. Or crabs really. Lots of fish, prawns a and squid.

PROTIP: If you don't like eating around bones, or chewing on them, or eating prawn shells and heads, start eating Sotong! Sotong is the generic name for Calimari, Squid and Cuttlefish (I think...). But no more picking bones shards out of what you're chewing, or bits of prawn shells from in between your teeth later.

Now for some sunset pics, out of order too:

Today I was on Lankawi Island, but it turns out it was one of the two days of the month that they shut down the cable car for maintenance. The entire reason I was over there was for the cable car and the sky walkway at the top. So now I either go again tomorrow, or forget it and head to Thailand. Staying and extra night here will cost a bit however. 

It wasn't a wasted trip however, I managed to find some new long pants that pack about 1/4 the size of my jeans, and much cooler in this weather while also keeping the mosquitoes off! And I also managed to get some duty free alcohol! A small 50ml bottle of Hennessy XO coniac for about $13AU, and a 200ml bottle of whiskey for $4AU. It's very very cheap, you can get 2L of gin for about $16. I could only bring back 1L to the mainland though, so I'll save my excess alcohol buying for the duty free shops at the Thai boarder :)

Kuala Perlis

Some photos from yesterday. I left Alor Setar at my usual 11am time and I started to head towards the coast for the ride up. It wasn't far at all.

The road along the coast, rice paddies on one side, the sea on the other.

Between the above photo and the next one I made this video! Virtual ride time!

An odd little park along the road.

Some of the clouds yesterday. Langkawi is on the left, Kuala Perlis on the right.

I was worried about accommodation in Kuala Perlis, I couldn't book anywhere online beforehand and the information I could find online was a bit lacking. I got there earlyish in case I had to go up to Kangar for a instead. The Lonely Planet guide has one paragraph on the town and only mentions one hotel (which I couldn't find). I knew there was one hotel in town that was decent on price and cleanliness, called T Hotel, they had a website and it's right across from the ferry terminal. It was on Agoda but I wasn't able to book for the dates I needed. The lonely planet guide mentioned Pens Hotel, but I couldn't find that. There only seemed to be one hotel on the street in the guide and it's far more expensive than what they've quoted.

So I gave up trying to find anywhere else and tried T hotel, and they had a room for 79RM a night with breakfast. Not bad. I was worried I'd have to go up to Kangar to find a room. So I've booked this one for 3 nights to plan my attack into Thailand and to visit Langkawi Island (tomorrow).

Kuala Perlis is apparently famous for the local version of the laksa. I tried it from one place and it was ok, but nothing special. I need to try somewhere else to see if it's better!

And then it was time for sunset...

Clouds over Langkawi

Rainy cloud coming towards me.

The sky!

Closer sky!

The Mosque on the waterfront. They were using it but it was still being built. And it wasn't offensively loud like others. 

Today I'm trying to find somewhere to book in Thailand. Then Tomorrow, it's off to Langkawi to waste my Malaysian Ringgits.